following collection is from a thread called “S6000fd/S6500fd tips
& tricks” in the Fujifilm Talk Forum at dpreview.com (look here)|
the meantime there is additional information from internet diskussions
or my own experience.
just put together all posted tips & trick and tried to put them
together under corresponding headlines. Since the sequence in the forum
was sometimes different, some text may not read fluently, but I did not
want to change it. I shortened some text when I
was sure not to change information.
I have not yet
tried all tips
myself but can subscribe many of them by my own experience. This is why
I collected them on my site.
Other Tips & Things to know
- Auto ISO
- White Balance
- Focus Speed
- 58mm Accessories
- USB Mass storage mode in Windows XP
- Paulsens Cheat
distance for different aperture/focal lengths
original thread was opened by “Paulsen”,
another big part came from “Videoguy”. “Jumbuk” and “Tianium” added
some details and all of them precised some items in the typical
style of a forum.
Thank you very much for the shared
How to judge the provided content
say it with Paulsens and
Videoguy’s words: “a lot of information can be found, but you can never
be confident if it is worth anything” (Paulsen). “Read the manual
read the tips. Make a cheat sheet to refer to. Actually go through the
process of using the different features so it will stick with you.”
Or, to say it with my words: the
information on this
site is provided “as is” to help you get to know your camera faster.
Make your own experience! I will not take any responsibilty for the
“missed or ruined shot”. If you find any mistakes or have suggestions,
please let me know.
Rule #G1: Know your auto modes
modes are poorly documented, and that's probably why some people never
ever notice what they are missing. Scene modes are about getting a shot
done when your subject is not going to wait for you to optimize your
camera settings. Also, unless you are shooting RAW, scene modes are the
only way to influence the contrast setting.
Rule #G2: Don't wait for face
detection to work.
expect miracles when shooting moving people, e.g. at your child's
birthday party. If a face is detected, OK, if not, chances are it does
not matter. Don't let yourself get distracted by green squares moving
about the screen.
Back to top
With outdoor shots,
especially in bright
sun light, the S6x00fd seems to handle similar to the F30. So, to get
very good results, instead of merely good, you need to know what you
Rule #O1: Avoid Auto mode.
can use Auto
mode, but usually any other mode is better. Landscape/Portrait usually
work best, or P, S, A, M, depending on the level of control you want.
Rule #O2: Use Landscape mode or
shooting a landscape, buildings, or anything else with some sky in it,
choose Landscape, even when the landscape is only the backdrop for a
shot of your significant other. This makes sure the sky is correctly
exposed. ISO is limited to 800. If the shadows turn out too dark, you
can PP them easier than blown highlights.
dawn, and before
dusk, use SP(Sunset) instead of Landscape (even when you aren't
shooting a sunset). This improves colors, allows fill-in flash, and ISO
up to 1600. Finally, if you feel Auto-ISO 1600 is too much, choose
SP(Night) and use a tripod.
applicable, use Snow/Beach scene modes: SP(Snow) (Auto-ISO 100-800),
SP(Beach) (Auto-ISO 100-200).
you don't know if you will be needing Macro or Super-Macro, try
Rule #O3: Use Portrait for
Portrait for frame-filling shots of people outdoors. This means less
contrast & sharpening, and ISO is limited to 800.
Rule #O4: Bright sun exposure
When using P, S, A modes in bright
sunny conditions, use -1/3 EV exposure compensation.
S6x00fd does well indoors, even in Auto mode. Indoor lighting is simply
more forgiving. Still there are some things you at least should have
Rule #I1: Flash is not evil.
yourself a camera working well in low-light. Still you will soon notice
that shooting completely without flash often does not work, so do not
hesitate to use it. Flash helps to get ISO down, and the "subdued"
S6x00fd flash keeps the background nicely exposed. Also, with the
pop-up flash, red-eye does not seem to be a problem.
experienced, you cannot be sure about red eyes. Sometimes it works fine
avoiding them, sometimes you still will find them. I’m not sure on what
that depends. MH.
Rule #I2: Use Portrait mode.
than not you will be shooting people when shooting indoors. So use
portrait mode, that's what it is for. Portrait ISO tops out at 800.
Rule #I3: Lower ISO.
S6x00fd likes to use ISO 800 indoors (this seems to be the max when
flash is enabled), and for some the in-camera noise processing at ISO
800 is somewhat heavy-handed. Use P, S, A, M with lower ISO, or shoot
RAW and de-noise yourself.
tips & things to know|
judge the exposure with the LCD, set brightness to -2, and look at the
LCD from straight above. When the viewing angle is slightly off center
(esp. in vertical direction), the contrast will change almost
immediately, and you are likely to misjudge.
brightness down, compare some shots with the computer monitor versions
of the same pictures so you get a better idea of the exposure
(under/over) of a photo as it appears on the LCD. Even at -2 brightness
on LCD, I thought photos looked more underexposed when viewed on a
calibrated PC monitor than on the LCD. It would be a good idea to get a
print for comparison against the LCD & monitor also.
your flash selection. Things like slow sync flash will change your
results. Flash settings are saved separately at the different positions
on the mode dial.
- The flash
ranges you see in Fuji's specs are for the ISO 1600 setting.
100 flash range is about 2.1m (6.8ft) at wide angle, and 1.15m (3.8ft)
at telephoto (because the lens is more than one F-Stop slower at
telephoto). Of course, this is calculated without allowing for ambient
light. The range doubles when you increase ISO by two full stops.
100 Shots may be underexposed, or you may end up with a slow shutter
speed. I did some 1/15s flash shots were the background was showing
traces of camera shake. Watch out for the camera shake warning.
P mode, it
appears that the minimum shutter speed is 1/45th sec when flash is
enabled, and it goes up with a greater focal length. Since the actual
flash duration is so short, a longer shutter duration doesn't help the
light from the flash expose the shot, and is only good for mixing in
ambient light, which can help on the overall exposure depending on the
amount of ambient light & ISO setting. It takes quite a bit of
ambient light to help on flash shots at low ISOs at rule-of-thumb
shutter speeds (1/focal-length). Fuji's auto ISO of course likes to use
higher ISOs and
mix more ambient light in at the expense of more noise. Sometimes it's
a fair tradeoff.
elaborate a bit more on that, when I say flash duration is "short", I'm
talking sometimes being faster than 1/10,000th of a second. So using a
slow shutter (slower than 1/45 sec for example) only allows additional
ambient light to expose the CCD, and it doesn't help at all for the
exposure of the flash itself.
Secondly, if the
were to get slower than 1/45th sec as your focal length increased, this
would be a problem with blurring noticable due to ambient light
exposure during this extended duration. So even when using flash,
shutter speeds need to be fast enough, like the rule-of-thumb
1/focal-length speeds, to prevent ambient light from giving your shots
a blurred look due to camera shake, as well as subject movement.
shooting with portrait mode is
better than auto to reduce noise - While it tops out at iso800 instead
of iso1600, it also will use iso400 on a lot of typical flash shots
that auto (on dial) will use iso800, so it's a little more
conservative, which is better than simply capping it. Manual ISO can do
better than both, by letting you lower ISO for the cleanest shots, but
read my next tip.
- Warning -
watch your flash power when using
manual ISO. Distance and zoom increase flash power needs. If you set
your ISO to 100 for the absolute cleanest pictures, you will run out of
range quickly, especially when zooming. ISO200 is still excellent, so
don't be too stingy about hiking up the ISO to 200, or even 400. A
little noise is better than an underexposed shot.
Comment: This seems to
contradict to rule #O2. I believe,
flash shots do better with higher ISO due to wider range and better
more ambient light for flash shots by using higher ISOs and slower
shutter speeds at the expense of more noise in situations where this is
preferred/desired. This is the Fuji default. A higher ISO setting
requires less flash power, so the flash will recharge
more quickly, and batteries will last longer also.
negative flash compensation to prevent blown highlights (unrecoverable)
on flash shots.
people miss the Auto-ISO 400 setting the F30 has. Remember that
Landscape/Portrait/SP(Party) modes use Auto-ISO 800, SP(Night) mode
uses Auto-ISO 200. While all this isn't Auto-ISO 400, it is at least
something. Also, up to ISO 800, the noise you see on the computer
screen will not bother you, even in large prints.
is often said that Fuji cameras have cold, blueish colours. Others call
this neutral. However, you can influence the colour temperature by
changing the white balance manually.
For outdoor shoots the
setting "Clouds" results in warmer, more colourful mood what many
Just make some test with different settings to
make up your mind.
sets the lens to its hyperfocal distance at F8 (and keeps it there
while zooming). Autofocus is disabled. This is nice for night shots
were you don't want to bother with focusing: go to SP(Fireworks), zoom
& frame the shot, switch AF to manual, go to A or M mode (set
aperture to F8), and shoot.
Below you find a detailed table.
Switch to manual focus, use AF button to focus, use half-press to set
exposure elsewhere, frame shot and shoot.
focussing fast enough? Look in the menu for the high speed mode, but
note the limitations: it increases the minimum focusing distance from
0.4m to 2m at wide
angle and from 2m to 4m at full telephoto so it is no good when your
subject is close to you. And that is uses
battery power more quickly.
preview in the 1.5 and 3 second setting displays the shot without
in-camera processing (no de-noise, no barrel distortion correction,
etc.). Both continuous settings display the fully processed shot, with
some processing delay.
when using instant review
immediately after taking a shot, you cannot zoom into a shot or pan
immediately while in photo mode, so you have to switch to playback mode
to take a closer look. But in the setup menu, there is a review setting
called "zoom continuous." This option pops the review image onto the
LCD at full zoom immediately after taking the shot so you can check
focus and pan for lazy eyes, stupid looking faces, etc, then zoom out
slowly, or immediately back out to the full picture by pressing the
back button, or simply half press the shutter release to immediately go
back to live view for the next shot. The FD button works as well for
review when you are using "zoom continuous" mode. This allows you to
take a closer look at your shot without ever having to leave picture
- An addon from
fabi of the FinePix Forum:
you find the 1.5 seconds preview is too long - you cannot switch it off
- you may find this trick helpful: in the continuous picture mode no
preview is shown. And there is no need to take a series of pictures,
one is enough. So you can take the next picture after 0.7 seconds
instead of 1.5 seconds. Obviously you then have to abandon the flash.
be done in playback mode, and it's very slow (annoying on both counts.)
Dont get distracted deleting images when you should be taking pictures.
Go ahead and buy another memory card if space is getting tight and
delete the bad pictures on your computer later.
turn off barrel distortion correction (and all other processing), shoot
RAW. RAW images are 12MP (4096x3072), but effective resolution is
somewhere between 6MP and 12MP. The Finepix Studio RAW converter seems
to apply the same barrel distortion correction as the camera (resulting
images loose a few pixels in either direction).
demanding shot, use RAW to preserve maximum recoverable details in the
dark and highlighted areas with a greater dynamic range, then post
process. Note that it uses more memory and increases write time while
using the camera and post processing conversion time can be slow, not
to mention "your" time when making adjustments.
s7raw, and Adobe Camera RAW (ACR) all support S6000FD raw conversion
(ACR doesn't support S6500FD without hacking a file.) I wouldn't
recommend using it with the camera as your standard.
reviewer over at dcresource.com recommends using RAW especially at
higher ISO. It looks like the S6x00fd is oversharpening a little, and
this seems to cause artifacts especially combined with the NR at higher
screw-on 58mm threaded accessories will work with the S6x00fd. This
includes filters, converters, close-up lenses, circular and linear (!)
- The "pro" lens
cap on the S6500 will also clip onto filters, so you can add a
protective UV filter as a permanent fixture.
lens cap will also clip on with the flare hood fitted.
Storage Mode with Windows XP
connected via USB cable the camera is not recognized as USB mass
storage. So you cannot copy pictures to and from the camera as you
could with an USB stick.
If you whish to do so, you have to
use a card reader (see accessories).
camera supports PTP (picture transfer protocol) as more and
actual cameras do. Who does not want to transfer his pics with Fujis
FinePixViever can easily install the PTP driver in Windows XP from the
CD. You then can with Windows XP Tools or other programs like Picasa
transfer ypur pictures.
Aperture/Focal lengthFrom the Aperture priority mode
28 mm - f/2.8+
31 mm - f/2.9+
mm - f/3.0+
34 mm - f/3.1+
39 mm - f/3.2+
mm - f/3.3+
45 mm - f/3.4+
53 mm - f/3.5+
mm - f/3.6+
69 mm - f/3.7+
97 mm - f/3.8+
mm - f/3.9+
147 mm - f/4.0+
177 mm - f/4.1+
mm - f/4.2+
206 mm - f/4.3+
220 mm - f/4.4+
mm - f/4.5+
247 mm - f/4.6+
260 mm - f/4.7+
mm - f/4.8+
286 mm - f/4.9+
"Paulsens" cheat sheet: The one ore the other found this cheat
sheet helpful, that's why you find it here.
- Portrait, or SP Party
- P (A, S, M): -1/3 flash EV
- fd on
P (A, S, M): -1/3 flash EV
N, SP Museum, or P (A, S, M)
- P (A, S,
M) + Low ISO
F4 (Wide) F5.6 (Tele)
F5.6 to F11
remove lens hood, flash off
- SP Flower, SP Text, if
buildings or landscape, with sky:
- default: Landscape
- after dawn/before dusk: SP
- low light (tripod): SP Night
- snow & ice: SP Snow
- sun & beach: SP Beach
- P (A, S, M): -1/3EV
people, frame-filling, no sky visible:
- default: Portrait
- P (A, S, M): -1/3EV
- fd on
- SP Sports
- setup 60fps lcd/evf refresh
turn on & shoot settings:
- P (-1/3EV), ISO 400, fd on